Loom repairs are getting caught up

I've been semi productive the past week or so with getting my looms usable again.

I lost the bracket to hold my tablet while using the floor size inkle loom, so I made a graph paper holder for it. I'm not sure if I am going to like using it yet, but might try some tonight or tomorrow.

That pattern is from a 10th century (Viking Era) find in Dublin, Ireland. the original piece was about 9mm wide and IRC the pattern came to about 6-7mm long. My attempts at it are not yielding the same width to length ratio, but that is what I'm striving for.


This past week I have been working on the beam gears for a PVC four shaft loom and I installed them yesterday while my internet was down and I couldn't work. I just need to install something for the a ratchet stop for the gears and I can start using it.

I'm going to try a 6" strap hinge, but expect to have to trim it to length.
I want to remake the gears with aluminum, but I might try to find pre-made gears that will fit and just purchase them; pre-made gears will all depend on the price.

Still getting the hang of regular posting, or maybe not..

I need to work on developing a habit of posting more often...

Over this past weekend I tried to get back to working on a four-shaft loom I made out of PVC pipe. I used Dave Holly's book "Building a 4-Shaft PVC Loom" with a few minor deviations, thus it not being completed in a couple of years... I think the book cost me $35 and all of the PVC pipe, a reed and Texsolv heddles ran me around $200 total. It sits behind me on the floor of my office, collecting dust and acting as a table for random stuff..

Over the weekend I worked on making gears for the rollers/beams. It went smoother than I expected, but I ran into the snag of my scroll saw and band saw both having dull blades. The scroll saw blades are on order from Amazon, but the band saw blade is more expensive and I can never remember the size I need to order..

I don't see the gears in my office right now, but I'll be taking pictures of every thing once I get it all assembled and can start doing regular style weaving.


In the mean time I plan to do reproductions of the Saint Cuthbert reliquary bands. I had done a variation on some of the patterns for an SCA project, but those were done with much larger thread and without the 3/1 twill behind the brocade.

I also lost the tablet PC bracket that I made for my big inkle loom, so I'm making a new bracket that will hold graph paper. Most people I see doing brocade and double face use graph paper, so I feel like I'm cheating using Guntram's tablet Weaving Thingy - which I HIGHLY recommend by the way!!!!

I'll try to get pics of the new bracket tonight and post them up.

Tablet woven trim in the style of a Viking era trim

This is my documentation for some weaving I entered in the AEthelmearc A&S Champs this past weekend - I didn't win, I didn't expect to win, I went because a friend goaded me to get out of the house and I knew that I would have a good time once I got there.

I hope the images come in okay.

Introduction:
   This is brocaded tablet woven trim I made for a friend that has an 11th century Irish personae. The original band this is based upon was made of silk thread with gold brocading, it was found in Dublin, Ireland. That piece is believed to date to between the late 10th and early 12th century when Scandinavians played a dominant role in the founding of Dublin as a place to trade slaves and as it’s rulers until the Anglo-Norman invasion in the late 11th century.

Technique/Material Used:
   The original band was made from 31 cards threaded in all four holes and is 9mm wide. The cards were mostly threaded in the S direction, but a portion of them are a mixture of S and Z threading. The brocade thread is “spun-gold”, which is gold foil wrapped around a core of silk thread. The brocade pattern is 18 lines that repeat over and over and has an approximate density of 44 picks per cm. Neither Pritchard nor Spies mention how the brocade is handled at the selvage and I have not seen a photo or the back face of the fragment to try to surmise that for myself – it is unlikely that the brocade thread passed completely thru the selvage as Spies points out that the only example of this happening is one of the Birka finds where it makes a fringe.

   This is half of a trim commission that was requested to be 1-1.5 inch wide. I used #10 crochet cotton for both the warp and brocade weft and #30 for the ground weft to help offset elongation that might be caused by using a #10 ground weft. Neither reference source I have for this piece specifies whether the brocade thread is held down by a single thread per card, both top threads (“double”) or if it passes to the back face so I chose to use single thread tie downs after trying double tie downs; the sample I kept for myself shows how the individual pips in the pattern appear more clearly with single ties downs as opposed to the doubles. This leads me to think that the original probably used single thread tie downs, but I am experimenting with changing my weaving technique to explore several different variables and see how much of a difference they can make.

   After some discussion with Nancy Spies I did some experimenting with warp tension using 100/3 silk thread and Mylar fly fishing tinsel. I managed to reproduce the band and pattern at 11mm wide and roughly the same length, maybe a bit longer; so I know that I need to use even finer thread to achieve the same width as the historical remnant, possibly 120/3 will do it. The elongated pattern sections are where I had my warp tension VERY TIGHT, then I eased that off and did another section and eased it off again and another section, etc… The shortest section was accomplished by having the tension so loose that the cards were hanging at about 45 degrees under their own weight.

   I want to see how dramatically warp tension, burnishing, and the use of a beater sword will affect the pattern visibility and recognition after the silk decays. I’ve started a new band with 60/2 silk thread and using same pattern, but I’m using measured weights to control the tension and card skew to see just how little weight it will take to get the period warp/weft ratios. I’ll also experiment with using a beater sword in addition to just beating in with the shuttle to see how that affects pattern elongation. Most of the brocade thread will be a modern “spun-gold” replacement that is intended for embroidery work, but I also plan to do sections using silver wire. I am going to use fire to burn away the silk warp to see if I can replicate the pattern imprinting in the wire has been used to determine the Bifrons, Birka and Evido patterns.


Pattern B23 from Birka - Birka III


Kentish bands from Bifrons - Crowfoot


Spun Gold - Spies

References:
Pritchard, “Silk Braids and Textiles of the Viking Age from Dublin,” pp.149-156
Spies, “Ecclesiastical Pomp & Aristocratic Circumstance“, pg. 254-255
Geijer, Birka III: Die Textilfunde. Uppsala: Almqvist and Wiksells Boktryckeri, 1938
Crowfoot and Hawkes, “early anglosaxon gold Braids,” Medieval Archaeology Xi (1967)

My weaving sample showing double ties downs on the right and single tie downs on the left:

sorry for the gaps

Wow, it's been far too long since I've used this space... A little catching up is required. The company I work for was bought by a competitor and that forced a stock purge that gave me enough to put down on a house in another state - so I moved... I was put in a different department, doing different stuff, but it allowed me to work from home - the nearest office is two hours away. My GF moved with me and had trouble finding a job, but then landed a good position - then her diabetes went haywire and she had to resign; we got married because having her on my insurance otherwise was WAY expensive. I got re-involved in the SCA and things have been going swimmingly! I'm now a court Baron, I have three AOA level awards (combat, service and art) from the local Kingdom (AEthelmearc) and a GOA level art award (Fluer). I'm squired to an old friend who is a Knight and Duke. I've been giving classes in brocaded tablet weaving and that is where much of my focus has been for the past 5 or so years and likely what at least half of my posts will be about going forward. I haven't been doing any model building or painting in a while, just haven't had the itch since I moved from NY to PA. I still have boat loads of unused stuff and will likely sell some on ebay; I gave a couple pounds of pewter figures (all dark ages stuff) and a plastic viking longship model to an SCA friend because he's more likely to get to painting them long before I will... I now have a bunch of chickens, a couple of ducks and a great dog in addition to the conure we had in NY. I'm hoping to post more regularly, I hope you all enjoy it.

Been away for a while... :-(

I've been absolutely consdumed by my day job most of this year, so I haven't been doing much in the area of gaming or model building...

I've been running a D&D 4e game on Thursday nights and using store bought minis for the most part. I occassionally print out encounter maps and mount them to foamcore, but even that has been few and far between.

We're running Witchlight Hermatage right now and I want to do a spiffy map without dropping the cash on the Dungeon Tiles - while they are AWESOME, I am totally broke!! Fortunately I have access to a large format color printer at work and Visio!

What I did was capture the map image from the PDF I got through D&D Insider and import it into Visio. I stretched the image up to make the grid full size. I then created a 1 inch square with no fill and arrayed it to cover the entire map image...
Set the plotter to my default printer, adjust the page size. print out 2 copies, delte the grid and print a third copy.

I used the gridless copy at the end of our first session for when the characters first get to the hermatage and nothing significant is happening.

The two gridded copies are going to get mounted to foamcore.

I'm going to try to do that this weekend and take pictures to show the process so I can do a write up.

In the mean time I am using some Warhammer Skinks as the Brachmarsh Lizardfolk because I had purchased them last year to build a baby dragon for the Coppernight Hold Dungeon Delve and hadn't gotten around to doing all of them yet - that's a whole different build post.

Dreadnaught stretching part 2

I managed to finish off Brother Captain James' dreadnaught last night...





I cut the aluminum tubes a little shorter and drilled completely through the knee so I could use a much longer central pin to be the major structure for every thing.



Part of doing that included seperating the knee from the pelvis and drilling the holes in the penvis to receive the pin.



I took some thick(ish) copper wire and wrapped it in very thin wire (red magnet wire) to recreate the hydraulic lines. You can see a finished leg here:

The new hydro lines are glued into the holes i drilled previously where the original hydro lines were.

And both finished legs...:


Mounted to the pelvis:



And the finished Dreadnaught - about 3/16" taller:

Taller Dreadnaught?

Brother Captain James came to me on Monday night at Battle for Salvation and asked me to do a conversion for him. He wants to make his dreadnaught taller!! he wants to add about half an inch total to the leg, to keep the overall balance of the piece, I'll have to add length above and below the knee and replaces the hydraulic lines.

I'm not 100% when comes to ID'ing models, but I think it's an old Venerable Dreadnaught...



First thing I did was cut through the three outer hydraulic piston shafts to the foot and then the inner (thicker) piston shaft and my finger! But ONLY on one side!!



I then drill holes into the hydraulics on the leg and foot bracket to accommodate a copper rod that is much smaller than the piston shaft. I often use paper clips to do pinning, but in this case I have some aluminum tube that is very close to the shaft diameter and the copper rod I have slips right inside with almost zero extra space.





It’s tricky to keep the bit centered on the hydraulics and drill in along the center, but it’s worth going very slow!! After I drill in a comfortable distance (a good 3/32” of rod in the hole), I cut of just the piston shaft and leave the outer housing!

Using the uncut side as a base measure, I used 0.001” accurate calipers to measure the exposed piston shafts and added ¼” and cut the aluminum tube to length. I then cut some of my copper rods and slipped them into the holes in the foot bracket and leg.



You’ll notice that the center shaft is a bit larger, but I had some larger rod and tube that is a close match.

I similarly cut away the hydraulic lines and drill into the ports. The bit would have been easier if I had cut through the leg above the knee, but that increases my risk of dropping and losing parts while working the project.

The hydraulic lines will be replaced with either copper rod or thick paper clip wire that has been wound with very fines “magnet” wire to recreate that ridge flex-shaft look. The replacement part will be bent and cut to fit and the starter holes will be enlarged as needed.

I haven’t nailed down exactly how I plan to increase the thigh length, but I have a couple of ideas I’m mulling over..

Hopefully I'll managed to get the finishing update in a day or so and not have another 2 or 3 month.

Daleks

Lately I've been working on casting some scratch built Daleks in 28mm for use with Doctor Who rules I found over at http://www.drwhominiatures.co.uk/






I have about 30 Daleks, but I still need to make the arms for them.
Once finished, I'll have around 45 Daleks and with about 2/3 of them I'll be able to switch out the top half to a flaming wreck version. I may add some plastic card slats to some to make these Mk 1's into Mk 3's.

trohpy project

I delivered the trophy components today at lunch and my friend was practically exstatic about them!!

I need to get pics of the originals and hopefully a pic of the finish painted trophy so I can post them.

Wargames Illustrated

I just picked up 5 or 6 issues of Wargames Illustrated at Compleat Strategist in NYC on Saturday. I'm really liking the magazine so far. The $8 cover price is prohibitive, but less than Games Workshop's White Dwarf and the content ranges all genre's , scales, figure manufacturers and rules publishers...

Issue 260 comes with a sprue of 2 figures in 28mm by the Perry brothers - early 1800's riflemen and there is a painting article and a "how-to" for a quick and dirty conversion from English to American enlistment.

I just finished a two-part article spread across issues 262 and 263 about the introduction and usage of firearms in Africa during the 1860's. Some very interesting tid-bits about how inaccurate the early arms were and how the natives learned to countered them.

I know there was some early concerns when Battlefront initially bought a controlling interest in WI, but from what I can see they have NOPT turned the mag into WD for Flames of War. There is a FoiW article in each and every issue (and often two), but the mag is from from dominated by the content for just that one game. Every issue I have in hand has at least 4 articles on games for other time period (none of which Bf covers) and one has an interview with Rick Priestly from GW.

Overall, I think the mag is well worth a preview!

scenic bases

I have been kicking around the idea of making and selling scenic bases for a few months now. Lately I have been working on making some originals and nailing down various lines of base styles. Right now I think I have about 17 different styles between 1 inch squares and 1 inch rounds and maybe about 25 different originals with variations of patterns (skewing and sanding).

My thought is that I will probably go into production in January, do a preliminary run that will get painted and then start advertising. I need to decide if I am going to do an e-bay store or try to set-up a website with a cart system.

I just did a Google search for "scenic bases" and didn't really like most of what I saw. Most of them were selling 5 bases for $5, which is probably less than $1 in materials... I know there is profit to be had, but I'm betting that the business is slow going!

Tusk!!!

It's not just a Fleetwood Mac song anymore!!

I found a set of rules for a Mammoth Hunting miniatures game late last week and it looks like a load of fun!!

The base rules are for 6mm and 15mm figures with a nod to a miniatureas company that has a line of figures in both scale; looking at the web-site, they also have two rules supplements that I might pick up in the near future ($3 each for PDFs).

I'm thinking that I will use some 40K figures (Kroot) and just double all of the distances in the rules.

I couldn't find any Mammoth toys this weekend, so I bought a couple of elephants, a T-Rex, a triceritops and a tiger. Given an afternoon or so to do some conversion work, I should have wooly mammoths and a saber-toothed tiger!!

I'll need to make some fire markers, but that can wait...

delays, delays, delays...

I've been off kilter the past few weeks to a month becuase they moved my seating assignment at work and I'm in a high profile, high traffic spot now and don't have the freedom I have had in the past and my general internet usage and posting has been suffering for it...

Two weeks back I decided to do a Psycher Battle Squad for the Kroot as IG army I am building. The models are pretty much straight forward Kroot with the rifles cut away from their hands and the gripping hands drilled out to look like fists. I did a little custom work with the legs by splitting several sets of legs into left and right halves and mixxing those to get static poses; toss in some knee undercuts and a little melting to get one guy who is arching back. I used one of the leg sets for where I was trying to duplicate the IG heavy weapons team pose, so one of the guys is sort of kneeling...

I was going for a look like they were all in agonny (sp?) and I think I hit it pretty well...

I painted all of the last weekend with white primer, then a straight white base coat, I made a wash using Blood Red and about 20 parts water and then two layers of Skull white dry brush to give a sort of albino effect.

I also built up a Primaris Psycher in a similar manner and paitn scheme as the others, but put the komb form his haed on his back like spines and twisted some fine wire around a sewing pin to make coils and glued those into the head. I replaced the rifle in his left had with a bilt of copper tube with an Empire halberd head on it and a little plastic card to bulk out the blade; I also used some kroot rifle bodies as a "power generator" just below the halberd head and a muzzle as butt piece (which made it alot easier to glue things in place and anchor the pole weapon to the base.


As usual, photos to come later...





I nearly forgot to mention, for my regular psychers I used Tau tank commander heads and a push mold to put Kroot beaks on them; the effect is pretty freaky.

sorry for the gaps

Things have been crazy lately...

I was looking for a new apartment and the one I found, while pretty nice and affordable had a landlord that gave me a bad feeling.

I am in the running for a promotion at work that would require I move across the country.

I have discovered Monsterpocalypse!

not much progress to report lately

I didn't do much this weekend.

A few weeks ago I bought some Sentinel Walkers off a kid in the gaming club and stripped the paint off them and broke them down into base components as much as possible so I can reconfigure them as part of the Adeptis Mechanicus army I want to build.

The pilot is just a seated guy molded as mostly one piece (torso, pelvis, legs). I decided to fill in the back surface of the lower half with Green Stuff (GS) to give it all substance; this will make it easier to cast it in resin.

I took some heads from a box of IG infantry and with a little bit of carving and GS sculpting made three variations of modern aircraft pilot heads. I cast all of these in silicon to make a two-part mold so I can do a handful of resin casts for the Mechanicus army and some other future projects. I ended up with a few bubbles in the silicon that I had to repair last night, but I think the mold will be usable with just a smidge of trimming with a razor blade.

corner pieces

I went home at lunch yesterday and did a first layer pour on my sons corner sculpt, then after work I finished the mold in a couple of separate pours.

I stripped the Lego mold box off this morning when I woke up and did a first run resin cast before morning sabbatical.

I think I pulled the piece out of the mold too soon because a few spots were squishy, but that pour was more to clean the mold of clay residue and silicon flash. I wouldn't try to sell that first cast anyway, so it doesn't matter if it failed.

I poured a second cast before leaving for work, it should be fully cured by the time my son rolls out of bed to go to work.

A night of casting

As it turns out, the repairs I made to my mold yesterday morning took and the mold is very close to "perfect". It hard to accept anything short of "exactly what I wanted" and balance that against something that "works". I want to think that the imperfections in the mold give the cast pieces "character", but I find that to be difficult to sell.

My son must be as cheap as I tend to be. When I asked him what he would pay for one of the castings, it was like pulling teeth to get him above $5; I'm thinking of asking $15.

I managed to get three casts last night and two more before leaving for work this morning.

My son used the first two casts I made (which I wouldn't sell because of shrinkage making the edges very thin) as templates to make a 90 degree corner piece. He was laying the tile for the decking when I left for work this morning; I asked him to wait to pour the mold so I can take a final look at the original and make any tweaks that come to mind.

We were talking last night and I am thinking of donating a set of the terrain pieces to my local gaming club to be a prize at the next tourney. I'm not sure right now what I am going to consider "a set" - a minimum of 4 straight pieces (each is 5 inches long), probably two 90 degree inside corners (I think they will be 4inches by 4 inches) and two 90 degree outside corners (I think they will be 5 inches by 5 inches) - I THINK a GW Bastion will sit inside of that, I need to check.

My son thinks I should cut the length down. Each straight piece has crenelations that give 3 firing rests. If I cut one down to just one positions it would be about 1 2/3 inches long, two positions would be about 3 1/3 inches long... Those sizes would work better with smaller angled corner pieces to make a snaking defense line but would be easy to knock out of position. If I had a wide blade on my band saw, I wouldn't have to make a new mold for each size...

casting mis-adventures

When I got home last night I tried to use a piece of glass to give my casting a FLAT base, it did NOT go well....!

Using my big open topped block mold, given a little shrinkage in the resin, yields very thin edges where the original sculpt tapers down to "ground" level. To try and reduce this effect I sprayed a bright, shiny, NEW piece of glass with silicon lubricant thinking that would let me just slide the resin casting off and have a wonderfully smooth bottom.

To my dismay and GREAT irritation, the resin clung to the glass and wouldn't even consider letting go.

I managed to slice a chunk of skin off the back of my middle finger on the edge of the glass... Ouchy!! And this not even a minute after saying "I know I'm going to hurt myself doing this..."

And then, just to be mean, while cooling, the resin shrank and cracked the glass into 8 or 10 pieces...

But amazingly, the glass was still adhered to the resin! I ended up smashing the glass into tiny bits and still some is attached to the resin!! I have even dragged it along a concrete sidewalk and all that did was smooth out most of the sharp glass edges....

Needless to say, that cast is ruined and useless!
I might be able to salvage it as a painted example...


The gooey part of the mold had not completely cured so I cut into the side of the mold and scrubbed out the unset silicon and refilled the cavity with a new batch. That fixed two separate spots, but I discovered this morning that it did not fix the one that was causing a serious problem in the finished pieces (right where models would be placed!).

I did a little more surgery this morning before leaving for work and I hope that solves the problem, if not I'll have to remake this mold and lose probably $30 in materials! If the mold comes out usable, I plan to turn it into a two part mold that will give it a little more thickness at the taper points and pour it from a side. If I go this route I am going figure out a way to have my name and the copyright symbol integrated into the mold so it comes out on all the finished casts.

more casting

When I got home from gaming last night the silicon mold I had trouble with seemed to be less soupy and then this morning it seemed a bit more firm as well. So I measured how much liquid it would hold and figured out where half of that would fill a dixie cup and mixed a batch of resin and poured it in.

The resin sets up in about 15 minutes, so I was able to demold the cast before leaving for work and it looks mostly good.
There are some deformations around the still gooey areas, but they look almost intentional and give the piece a little character.
You can't see finger marks in the clay original, but it doesn't look as smooth and professional as I would like...

I'm going to try to do 3 or 4 more casts tonight when I get home and maybe prime and paint one.

silicon casting

This weekend I made my first foray into the wonderful world of silicon molds and resin casting!!

I picked up some supplies from JGreer.com and have so far found the guy to be helpful.

While waiting for the supplies to be delivered (UPS ground – I expected the full 10 days, but they really only took 3 or 4!), I made a few mold boxes with Legos and based some multi-piece metal model parts in clay as a foundation; these Legos will be forevermore dedicated to molds and casting, I bought lime green and orange so I remember to NOT mix them with the others I have collected over the years and plan to hand off to my grandchildren some day

I went out Saturday and bought several different sized dixie cups for measuring and mixing and poured the first halves of 2 two-part molds Saturday afternoon. The silicon I am using sets up in just over an hour, so I was able to strip the mold box down enough to pull off the clay base layer, swab the silicon with petroleum jelly, rebuild the box and pour the remaining half around mid evening. On the weekends I tend to stay up until 1am and actually managed to do my first resin cast in the molds before going to bed.

I was casting copies of a grav-bike from the game Void, which is a pretty spiffy model in my opinion. I plan to convert it over for use as a Tau Tetra for Warhammer 40,000, but I didn’t want to mangle the original because the company (i-Kore) has shut down (I’ll try to paint it up good enough to display).

I was also trying to make a copy of mini tank treads from an old GW Imperial Guard heavy weapon platform ( forget the name). This too is a multi-piece metal figure I’d like to NOT mangle, the casts are going to become the treads of an Adeptus Mechanicus heavy weapon servitor conversion.


The grav-bike pieces came out pretty good. I discovered that I got some bubbles in the mold, but the resin piece cleaned up nicely with a new X-Acto blade. I also discovered that the silicon mold picked up brush marks from where I used a large artists brush to swab petroleum jelly around between pours. The first cast picked up all the residual clay and petroleum jelly that was left in the mold and a second cast I did on Sunday came out nearly perfect. I need to find a way to patch the bubbles in the mold; I have an idea, but I am waiting for the guy from the supplier to get back to me about it. The brush marks that are in the mold should sand off the cast no problem.

The mini treads did NOT come out well at all!!! The way I set the mold up caused air bubbles to get trapped at critical points and I lost entire sections of the cast! I tried to clean up (expand) the air channels in the mold, but the second cast came out as bad as the first! If I can fix the bubbles in the grav-bike mold the way I think I can, I’ll do similar to fill in the pour spout on the treads mold and then cut new ones. The problem is that I did this as a tall, vertical mold where the resin is supposed to flow down through one piece and fill the other and continue to the top. Sounds great on paper, but didn’t work out well in practice. If I can plug the fill spout, I’ll cut new fill spouts and air channels so that I am filling the mold from a side; otherwise I’ll have to redo the mold.


Late last night I bit the bullet and tried to pour the silicon for a big block mold around an original defense barrier made from clay sculpted over Legos. The first batch of silicon only filled the mold box about half way, so I quickly made another batch and poured it in as well. The second batch left the mold about a quarter of an inch from the top and I knew that would mean there is less than a quarter of an inch of silicon over the highest point of the sculpt so I made up a little more and poured that in as well. I used my stirring stick (a popsicle stick) to try and integrate the three layers of still semi-liquid silicon.

This pour proved that I am having trouble getting a consistent mix with my current methods… By the time I got to the bottom of the mixing cup I saw that I needed to mix the two parts more and that showed consistently across all three portions of the pour.

I stripped the mold box off this morning before heading to work and I found that there were still several pockets of liquid silicon inside the mold. Fortunately, the skin of the mold didn’t tear and gush out the gooey liquid silicon! I put the mold out on the railing of the stairs to my apartment in hopes that the 90 plus temps today will help the mold finish curing. I’m hoping to get at least one good resin cast from this mold so that it isn’t a total failure that used about 3/8 of the silicon I paid $100 for… It doesn’t help that I had to destroy the original clay sculpt to get it out of the mold (this is a failing do to inexperience on my part, not the casting/mold making process – I have seen YouTube videos of other people where this doesn’t happen).


If things turn out well, I'll be fleshing the defense barrier out into a full line of terrain to sell. Then I am going to move on to sculpting an actual trench piece based on some photos from the first World War that will mount in a gaming board rather just sit on top of it.

I might do some scenic bases to sell as well, but I'm not sure yet... There is a ton of competition in that arena and I know a guy that does that already and wouldn't want to step on his toes.

I had planned to do some 15mm buildings for Flames of War, but I haven't gotten around to building the originals yet.